Near sundown, the pristinely white walls of this beautiful old church seem to glow against the blazing desert sky. In a way, it seems completely out of place in this environment, but then, weren’t churches built to serve their people?
San Xavier Mission, known as The White Dove of the Desert, was constructed between 1783 and 1797 to serve a church begun by Father Eusebio Kino in 1692. That makes the church older than the United States Constitution.
The church still serves parishioners from the Tohono O’odham nation, whose ancestors molded the low-fire clay bricks to build the clay walls. Mass is held regularly within the interior walls, which are covered in original artwork. The church’s statuary was probably created by Spanish artists and hauled by donkeys to their destination.
The church faces south with prominent, twin bell towers, one on the west side and the other on the east. The east tower was never completed and there is no record as to why. It could be they ran out of money, but that seems unlikely. One story says a worker fell from the tower and died during construction, leaving the others too afraid to climb it. Another story says they simply left it unfinished to avoid paying taxes.
San Xavier was made a National Landmark in 1963. It costs nothing to visit and view the church, which attracts more than 200,000 visitors a year. It is considered the finest example of Spanish Colonial architecture in the United States and is a favorite subject for photographers. In fact, there is a photo of the old mission in the portfolio of Ansel Adams. Its exterior has changed very little over the decades.
San Xavier is very easy to locate. Drive south of Tucson on Interstate 19 and watch for signs. As you approach, you can see it off to the west of the freeway. Take exit 92, which is San Xavier Road and follow the signs. You will be on reservation land, so keep to the main roads. Anything else will be considered trespassing.
While there, visit the food stands run by members of the T.O. Nation. If you have never tasted frybread, this will be a great time to give it a try.
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